Sunrise, sunset and farewells …

October 19, 2025JT Twissel 28 Comments

Looking west from the southern coast of Kaua’i just before the sun was swallowed by the ocean.

As I flipped through my photos of sunrises and sunsets on Kauai, I realized there really is no doubt which is which.

In the morning the clouds seemed like mischievous spirits (ghosts, if you will) dancing on the horizon.

In the evening, the clouds flowed together … like the curtain closing on another day.

On our last day we drove to the west side of Kaua’i which is drier and less touristy.

As you can see, my map was beginning to show signs of wear and tear (abuse)

Port Allen is where most tours of the famous NaPali coast originate and Waimea is the gateway for Waimea Valley, the Grand Canyon of Kaua’i. It’s also the spot where Captain Cook first landed and “founded” Hawaii. But don’t expect to see any monuments to Cook here. At that time the Hawaiians had a feudal society and Cook challenged one of the great warlords so he had to go. Beaten, stabbed, the whole shebang.

The greatest of the warlords, King Kamehameha, landing in Waikiki.

Our objective, however, was to pay respects to my father who died while snorkeling off the beach below almost twenty years ago.

Salt Pond Beach (on the map, near the Port Allen airport)

As you can see, they’ve had to post a warning about strong currents. I suspect this sign was posted for tourists who, like my father, discovered a “local beach” (one frequented primarily by local residents) and wandered out beyond the reefs. It’s not a place I would advise tourists to visit – there are no cafes, food trucks, trinket shops, etc. Just the locals picnicking, listening to loud music on boom boxes and watching their children splash about. Just the way my dad would have liked it.

Aloha and Mahalo Kaua’i!

I ate this! #Kauai

October 17, 2025October 17, 2025JT Twissel 20 Comments

I am a picky eater; I really am. Gooey things make me squeamish.

But I tossed this gelatinous glob into my mouth and, per instructions, rolled it around with my tongue and then … bit down on the seed pod. I chewed a few crunchy bits and swallowed them before being warned by Mason: “You won’t get much sleep tonight but you will be regular as hell!”

I’d eaten the seeds of the cocoa plant; the things which are carefully fermented and ground into award winning cocoa powder. Mason was the Hawaiian botanist who, with all the charm, wit and energy of a young Robin Williams, kept a couple dozen chocoholics entertained for three hours.

Mason showing us the core of the cocoa pod with all those gooey globs of goodness.

Pods come in many shades of red-orange and banana-yellow. To ascertain which ones are ripe, they peel off a bit of the skin. Yellow inside is good-to-pick; green inside needs more time. Mason joked that the reason Hawaii produces so many good football players is that they grow up tossing cocoa pods. They’re about the same size as footballs and their skin is similar in texture.

Lydgate Farm is located at the base of the Makaleha Mountains near the end of Olohena Road (581). Besides the cocoa plants, they grow all kinds of native Hawaiian fruits, harvest honey from their own beehives, and, recently they’ve begun cultivating vanilla beans and producing their own vanilla extract. After you’ve heard the process for fertilizing vanilla plants, you’ll appreciate why real vanilla extract is so damn expensive! And always sold out. $65 dollars a bottle. Yikes!

I wouldn’t recommend this tour for everyone. It’s expensive and off the beaten track but for gardeners, cooks, and chocoholics it’s three hours of informative fun. Their chocolate is indescribably good, their honey is sublime and yes … I am still fighting the urge to buy the vanilla extract once it becomes available. God help me, I’m on the waiting list and I don’t even bake. Talk me down folks.

Next – I end with sunrises and sunsets. Let’s see if you can guess which is which! Aloha.

In the land called Hanalei #Kauai

October 15, 2025JT Twissel 27 Comments

There are places on this earth whose beauty is impossible to capture in photographs. I’ve been told by an Indian friend that no place on earth could possibly compare to Kashmir. I’m sure that’s true but I doubt I’ll ever get there. My two places would be Hanalei on the northern tip of Kaua’i and Yosemite Valley. Neeta didn’t have a second place. It was hands down the Kashmir and no place else. How about you?

Presenting … a small slice of Hanalei

Before you reach the town, stop at the Nourish Cafe – a grass shack selling mostly smoothies and other healthy snacks. It’s at the end of a dead end road, hard to find but when you see the view, I think you’ll agree, worth the trouble.

Hanalei Valley – where kayaks can cruise up and down the river in a jungle like setting.

Hanalei Bay. Watching the shadows shift as the clouds passed over the mountains was like listening to a symphony.

Hanalei Beach and Pier – the sand wasn’t nearly as nice as Lumaha’i but the waters were a lot friendlier and the views – wow!

Rarely a day goes by without at least a bit of rain but when the weather is 81 degrees, who cares!

Of course, I did my share of cloud surfing.

The boy preferred the Hanalei River where he caught and released all kinds of fish.

I have no idea what kind of tree this once was but there’s a forest of her kind near the river.

If you’re lucky, you may get a peak at one of the many waterfalls.

I will admit, the town of Hanalei has gotten more touristy than it was the last time I was here. The bars are noisy and less quaint. Especially at this time of year. The Hawaiians really love Halloween.