Things Better Left Unsaid #Storytime


“Why, you might ask, does Marcia live behind this place,” Daniel asked, after they’d escaped out the back door of the Hari Krishna Institute.

They’d been lucky. The Krishnas were in the middle of a celebration and ignored the four potential converts in their midst. However, shepherding the girls through their orgy of the senses had been difficult. Men, women, and children swirled mindlessly around them, through clouds of burnt cooking oil and sandalwood incense to the rhythm of slapped bongo drums and rattled tambourines, intoxicating and hypnotizing the three road weary girls. Only out in the fresh air, had he allowed them to stop a forward motion.

“Believe it or not, they’ll keep swirling and twirling and banging those drums until they pass out and then, in morning, why, I’ve seen men leave that place in business suits and carrying brief cases. Investment bankers on Wall Street during the day. Krishnas at night.” Daniel joked as he led the girls across a cobblestone courtyard to the carriage house. “You’re kidding!”

“I am not.” The second floor was dark. Troubling. However, the doors to both the stairwell and to the flat were unlocked. That was a good sign. “Marcia thinks the Krishnas will protect her,” he chuckled as he led them inside. “She never locks her door.”

Looking around a room lit only by the Krishna’s celebrations, he recognized the two beanbag chairs they’d sewn together over popcorn and beer one night and a wooden coffee table left behind by a previous tenant for obvious reasons. The clincher that she hadn’t moved was good old Che still hanging on the wall next to the kitchenette. It was a poster of Guevara that Marcia’d had since college, the dead revolutionary, so young, so handsome, and so dangerous.

th-8

“Marcia?” He called as he flipped on the light over the sink. In response he heard two sets of voices coming from the bedroom. She wasn’t alone. What made him think she would be?

“It appears we’ve stumbled into something,” he said. The girl he’d called the Catholic caught his meaning. She was the tallest of the three and model-thin. Her long black hair and white skin seemed to set in marble a pair of blue eyes, unnervingly intense and crystal blue eyes. Compared to her, the ringleader (Venus of the Sewers) looked less like a goddess and more like the neighborhood tomboy. The third girl, who reminded Daniel of a young Eleanor Roosevelt, seemed to be trying to hide behind her friends.

The mumbling from the bedroom continued. “Marcia?” He repeated.

“Is that you Daniel?” Was the response.

“No, it’s Che Guevara.”

Marcia opened the door. She’d slipped a flowered house dress hastily over her head, which, on any other woman would look drab and shapeless but not on her. “My God, Daniel. How long has it been? I thought you’d finally given up on New York City and gone to live on Walden Pond.”

“No. I’ve been here. Well, around.  Here.”

She spotted the girls and turned her questioning eyes on him.

“You remember what it is to be adrift in this city without friends?” he asked. “It hasn’t been that long.”

“My God Daniel. I haven’t seen you in over a year and now you show up with three runaways?”

“A year? No, that’s not possible. It hasn’t been that long, certainly not in meaningful days and you can’t count my useless days – for which I’ve had many – against me. For the angel who talked with me came again, and waked me, like a man that is wakened out of his sleep.”

“Daniel? Old Testament now?”

“Daniel saved our lives! We were completely out of gas —we had no place to go. We would have been killed or worse.”

“He can’t help himself. He’s a Jesuit.”

“Was…was a Jesuit. No longer.”

“That’s right Daniel, I forgot. Now, you’re the Anti-Christ. How old are you girls?”

“I’m eighteen. My name is Bronte and this is Nora and Ellie.”

“Bronte? That’s an unusual name. Did you make it up? You don’t look eighteen. Are you runaways?”

“No, we’re not runaways. We’re musicians. Ellie and I play the guitars and Nora sings and she’s got a really good voice, just like Cher. We tried getting jobs in Montreal but the Canadians wouldn’t give us work permits cause there are too many Americans up there trying to avoid the draft. So we came down here.”

“To New York City? Do you know anyone in the city? “

They shook their heads no. “See, even stupider than we were when you came here to save the world and I came here to escape from God.”

“Escape from God? Is that what you’re calling your mother these days.”

“Heretic!” Daniel returned. Her face, despite the years spent in New York City working on hopeless causes, had not changed. It was still springtime and fresh air. Freckles swam across her nose like wandering stars, making her look much younger than she was. Meanwhile his hairline receded, the lenses in his glasses thickened each year and, the grime of city air had rendered his complexion dull and grey.

Before she could respond, the door to the bedroom opened and what emerged, albeit shyly, was a lawyer. Of that fact, Daniel was one hundred percent certain.

It was then that he said things he never should have said, opened Pandora’s Box and let evil take flight.

Next time: The Hunter Returns

Sunrise, sunset and farewells …

Looking west from the southern coast of Kaua’i just before the sun was swallowed by the ocean.

As I flipped through my photos of sunrises and sunsets on Kauai, I realized there really is no doubt which is which.

In the morning the clouds seemed like mischievous spirits (ghosts, if you will) dancing on the horizon.

In the evening, the clouds flowed together … like the curtain closing on another day.

On our last day we drove to the west side of Kaua’i which is drier and less touristy.

As you can see, my map was beginning to show signs of wear and tear (abuse)

Port Allen is where most tours of the famous NaPali coast originate and Waimea is the gateway for Waimea Valley, the Grand Canyon of Kaua’i. It’s also the spot where Captain Cook first landed and “founded” Hawaii. But don’t expect to see any monuments to Cook here. At that time the Hawaiians had a feudal society and Cook challenged one of the great warlords so he had to go. Beaten, stabbed, the whole shebang.

The greatest of the warlords, King Kamehameha, landing in Waikiki.

Our objective, however, was to pay respects to my father who died while snorkeling off the beach below almost twenty years ago.

Salt Pond Beach (on the map, near the Port Allen airport)

As you can see, they’ve had to post a warning about strong currents. I suspect this sign was posted for tourists who, like my father, discovered a “local beach” (one frequented primarily by local residents) and wandered out beyond the reefs. It’s not a place I would advise tourists to visit – there are no cafes, food trucks, trinket shops, etc. Just the locals picnicking, listening to loud music on boom boxes and watching their children splash about. Just the way my dad would have liked it.

Aloha and Mahalo Kaua’i!

In the land called Hanalei #Kauai

There are places on this earth whose beauty is impossible to capture in photographs. I’ve been told by an Indian friend that no place on earth could possibly compare to Kashmir. I’m sure that’s true but I doubt I’ll ever get there. My two places would be Hanalei on the northern tip of Kaua’i and Yosemite Valley. Neeta didn’t have a second place. It was hands down the Kashmir and no place else. How about you?

Presenting … a small slice of Hanalei

Before you reach the town, stop at the Nourish Cafe – a grass shack selling mostly smoothies and other healthy snacks. It’s at the end of a dead end road, hard to find but when you see the view, I think you’ll agree, worth the trouble.
Hanalei Valley – where kayaks can cruise up and down the river in a jungle like setting.
Hanalei Bay. Watching the shadows shift as the clouds passed over the mountains was like listening to a symphony.
Hanalei Beach and Pier – the sand wasn’t nearly as nice as Lumaha’i but the waters were a lot friendlier and the views – wow!
Rarely a day goes by without at least a bit of rain but when the weather is 81 degrees, who cares!
Of course, I did my share of cloud surfing.
The boy preferred the Hanalei River where he caught and released all kinds of fish.

I have no idea what kind of tree this once was but there’s a forest of her kind near the river.

Some are used as memorials.
If you’re lucky, you may get a peak at one of the many waterfalls.

I will admit, the town of Hanalei has gotten more touristy than it was the last time I was here. The bars are noisy and less quaint. Especially at this time of year. The Hawaiians really love Halloween.

Yikes! I do believe it’s possible to overdo things. Perhaps the crew had a few too many Mai Tais before the decorating began!

Next time: To the Lighthouse!

Sunrise Sandy Beach

Hawaii is a five hour flight from San Francisco and across two time zones which can be rough on early risers. On the first morning of my visit, I awoke at 4:00 am local time and in the dark. There being no coffee in the house and no nearby coffee shop open before 7:00 am, I forced myself back to sleep and missed the sunrise. My daughter had a dizzying schedule of activities planned and so I didn’t get another opportunity to catch a sunrise until Saturday morning.

Sunrise Sandy Beach. Once up, the sun was much too bright to look at directly.

Sandy Beach is a rocky point on the southeast end of Oahu. People do surf and body board here but it’s not advised. Too much broken bone, as the Hawaiians say.

I actually enjoyed the pre-sunrise show more.

So much more exciting … the peek-a-boo

I think my favorite shot is the last one. It would have been more dramatic if I climbed out onto the rocks, knelt down and caught the water smashing against the beach at the same time. Not happening folks. Not without coffee (and a new knee).

If you ever make it to Sandy Beach, keep an eye out for this guy. He supposedly lives there.

Eighty years ago

Allied forces launched an attack on the Germans occupying France. Few expected them to succeed.

Omaha Beach circa 2005

Above are the remnants of temporary ports known as Mulberry harbors. Some are on the beach; others are floating in the breakwater. They were used during the D-day invasion on June 6, 1944 but were badly damaged in a violent storm later in the month. When we visited Normandy in 2005 I wasn’t that interested in military history so they could have been “bombardons” or “phoenixes” which also provided landing ramps for troops and equipment. But they definitely weren’t “gooseberries” or “corncobs” – ships scuttled for use as breakwaters. (My husband, as you might have guessed, is a WWII buff)

The French have left these remnants on the beach as a reminder, knowing that it’s impossible to stand on this beach without feeling overwhelmed.

To the south of Omaha is Pointe du Hoc, a cliff that rises 90 feet straight out of the water, or so it seems. On this day, eighty years ago, Rudder’s Rangers used climbing equipment and, with heavy weapons on their backs, assaulted this cliff. We found a painting depicting this scene in the dining room of our hotel in Grandcamp Maisy (which isn’t a campground but a charming fishing village with views not only of Pointe du Hoc of but the Contentin Peninsula)

Dining room of our hotel in Grandcamp Maisy

I wished I’d had the good sense to ask the name of the artist but we had such a busy schedule that I never had the chance.

We tried visiting the remnants of the German bunkers on the top of Pointe du Hoc but it was raining like crazy and thus hard to get any good pictures. I can tell you, the craters left by the bombing on June 6, 1944 are still there.

Above is a place we visited on a cloudy day. It is the immaculately cared for American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer. Another place that will leave you breathless.

Eighty years ago. June 6, 1944.

Ask the bloke on the corner, luv…

 

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Map of our section of London. Note how the streets change names every block or so.

 

Just because you own a map, or two (or three)…

Just because you’ve read Frommer’s and Steves’ and have an excellent sense of direction…

Just because you’ve prepped for weeks doesn’t mean you’ll be able to find your way around the streets of London on foot without seriously pissing off whoever you’re sight-seeing with!

Actual conversation between me and my hubby:

“Give me the map! You’ve obviously gotten us lost!”
“Yeah, well you figure out where we are!”
Fifteen minutes later.  “I give up!”
“See, I told you!”
“Let’s stop at a pub and get a beer.”
“Oh yeah. That’s a good plan – have a few beers and then try to find our way home!”

Save your time, money and marriage and just ask for directions.

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Trafalgar Square which we stumbled upon while looking for something else!

No, strike that. Londoners, though for the most part friendly, are much too busy getting wherever they’re going to stop and give you directions.  They’ll just shrug their shoulders and say “Sorry Mate!” …if you’re lucky.  If not, they may send you in the wrong direction (not on purpose, of course). We even ran into a policeman walking the beat who claimed he didn’t know where he was. “Ask the bloke at the fruit stand on the corner, luv,” he said. “”He knows the area.” But there was no fruit stand or bloke on the corner.

Changing

Another thing we just happened upon – the Changing of the Guard (literally at the tail end!) This event happens only on nice days. When it’s raining they do what’s called “a wet change” (sounds like diapers may have been involved doesn’t it?) They look a bit like Klu Klux Klansmen from this angle, don’t they?

The problem is the city’s flat.  There’s not one mountain on the horizon in any direction  to provide a north/south, east/west orientation.  And, if that weren’t bad enough, there’s this river running through town (the Thames) which does not run in a straight line. No, it winds through the downtown in a giant ‘s.’

NewLondonBridge

The Tower Bridge. I must admit the many bridges along the river are handy for navigation. And they don’t change name mid-span.

Sometimes it will be to the north of you, sometimes to the south and God help you if you have the map upside down (a very easy thing to do). Instead of heading south, you could be heading north, soon winding up miles from where you wanted to be.

If the attraction you’re trying to find is on the Thames, no problem. Just walk along the water until you find it.

But if you’re looking for the British Museum,  which is somewhere at the intersection of Piccadilly, Soho and Covent Garden, God help you.  The area is full of alleyways and streets not on any map.  In addition, there appears to be an ordinance that a street cannot have the same name in Piccadilly as it does in Soho!

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The lobby of the British Museum

Remnant of one of the four horse chariots from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus - one of the seven wonders of the world now preserved by the British Museum.

In contrast – a remnant of one of the four horse chariots from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus – one of the seven wonders of the world.  It’s sad to see it here and not in the country where it was built but then perhaps it might not have survived.

BloatedTick

Here I am, to the right, all layered up like a bloated tick!

Weather-wise, we were very lucky. The first couple of days the weather was (as the Brits would say) brilliant.  Sunny and so mild that we left the windows open at night.  I’d followed the weather reports carefully for weeks before the trip and thus packed appropriately (or so I thought) – no winter gear. My plan was to layer if the weather changed. I didn’t think my husband would be so cruel as to actually take pictures of me all layered up.  Let me tell you, it’s not a good look for anyone who weighs more than ninety pounds.

The day we decided to see Dover Castle started out sunny and our hopes were high. By the way,  if you want to witness the efficiency of the British, just visit Victoria Train Station.  There are lines on the floor leading you to the trains, the bathrooms, the ticket counters.  It’s truly idiot proof.  And the trains are clean, run on time and keep you well informed of your location.  (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been stuck on a train in the US which, after being delayed for days, quickly dissolved into a scene from some zombie apocalypse movie when the food ran out and the toilets overflowed.)

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There’s the castle – now where are the signs telling us how to get up there?

Dover Castle, according to Rick Steves (who was losing credibility by the day), is an “easy, well-marked,  fifteen minute walk from the train station.”  Ha!  It sits on top of a hill overlooking the the English Channel.  You can see it as you enter the small sleepy town but can you get to it?  Aye, there’s the rub.  After cavorting around the town for over fifteen minutes searching in vain for the “well marked” route,  we ran into a lady carrying groceries who showed us the path to the castle.

PathtoCastle

The unmarked path to Dover Castle

This path led to a seemingly endless staircase which only got us half way up the hill. From there we followed the road up, up and up again. We’d barely managed to reach the top when the clouds menacing the channel suddenly appeared overhead, driven by strong and icy winds.  Then came hail.   Hail, I said. Followed by thunder, lightening and a wind strong enough to sweep you into the Atlantic.

Never travel to England in October without a winter coat!

A few pics for you…

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Storms moving across the Channel. They move fast and hit hard!

 

Dover Castle

View of 12th Century Church and 1st century Pharos (Roman Lighthouse) from Dover Castle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never Joke with a Border Guard (no matter how cute he is)

It was almost noon by the time we finally reached the Spanish border somewhere high in the Pyrenees Mountains.  The air was thin and dry.  We were sweaty, hungry, and crabby, especially after noting that every car not displaying a Spanish license plate was being pulled over and the occupants questioned by men in skin-tight military uniforms standing upright and proud in the sweltering heat.

“Oh my God,” I whispered to Carolyn, “they really are paranoid.  But cute.”

She glared at me. “Just don’t say anything,” she hissed.  We were in a car with DAC license plates which, in Cold War Europe, was akin to driving around with a nuclear bomb on your back seat. The Department of Army Civilians, you see, was a front for the CIA or so many Europeans believed.   This belief was so wide-spread in Germany that the local politzei had invented a game called “harass the occupiers,” in which they would pull over people with DAC license plates for flimsy reasons and confiscate their licenses.  They caught my Uncle Bob several times (okay, in his case considerable alcohol was involved) which is why he didn’t need his car! He couldn’t drive it.

Anyway, back to my story.  As soon as our car was identified as belonging to the vile CIA, extra guards were called and Carolyn and I ordered away from the vehicle.

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Spanish Military Officer – you may look but do not flirt!

“Do you have any drugs?”  One of the guards asked me.  His  brown eyes burnt through my sleep-deprived body like a lightening rod.

“Sure,” I answered, “The car’s full of them. Ha, ha.”

Next thing I knew Senor Passionate Eyes and his buddies were ripping out the seats of the VW, dumping all of our stuff on the ground and searching through it.

“It was a joke!”  I cried, as they pulled Carolyn’s sexy little undies from her suitcase and stuffed them into a bag (evidence?).

“Shut up,”  Carolyn scowled.  Men were pawing her underwear because I’d been stupid enough to flirt with a humorless hunk.

Hans and Klaus, who’d managed through the checkpoint with ease, waited for us and when the Spanish Inquisition was finally over, helped put the car back together. Hans even managed to convince the guards to return Carolyn’s undies which he gallantly handed to her one by one as she blushed. Then we followed them to the campingplatz.

Barcelona

Klaus, Jan and Hans on the beach in Blanes Spain

The campingplatz was indeed full of Germans of all ages, shapes and sizes, all of whom had arrived with the intention of wearing as few clothes as possible.  I can still remember the nightly parade of naked fraus on their way to the communal, out-in-the-open showers. Not a modest lady in the crowd.  Carolyn and I showered in our bathing suits.  Typical American prudes!

By the time we assembled Hans’ thankfully roomy tent, the sun had set and the temperatures cooled considerably.  The sound of a band playing nearby led us to an outdoor cafe where we ordered pitchers of sangria and paella and giggled as the singer massacred the English lyrics to the song Sugar, Sugar, sung by the regrettably forgettable band – The Archies.

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“Stop you rascal!” Hans gets frisky.

The first night went well.  We were all exhausted so a couple of pitchers of sangria knocked us on our butts.  However, the next night  I awoke to:  “Stop, you rascal!”  Hans’ hands had  found their way over to Carolyn’s body.  In the morning he asked me what “rascal” meant and I told him it meant we must be going…

Next – Mont St. Michel and the Samwitch Stand.